Wearing Che

June 2011
Having recently been in Samaipata Bolivia (now part of the 'Che Guevara Trail'), and that I was re-reading his autobiographical Motorcycle Diaries, I suppose it was hardly surprising that I began to notice people wearing t-shirts bearing Che Guevara's image.

Jimi Hendrix was also well represented, as was James Dean, The Beatles, Marilyn Monroe, Jim Morrison, and any number of other cult heroes (a few still alive but mostly dead). Che outnumbered all the others though — wherever I looked he seemed to be looking at me, or rather, staring past me into the distance. 

With a few exceptions the predominant image used is based on Alberto Korda’s iconic 1960 photograph Guerrillerio Heroico, which has become one of the world’s most famous images, and its reproduction a global phenomenon. 
Victor (Vondel Park Amsterdam) was my first ‘ask’ though shortly afterwards I realised that Rory (with Budge the crow) had also been wearing a Che t-shirt, so the theme had already been established.

Having approached Rory, and then asked to take his photo, I continued with this same idea. Now that the world has become saturated with images (and cameras), and we have little say in whether our own image is captured (or how it may be used), I made a point of introducing myself and explaining what I was doing. The engagement became as important as taking the photo. In nearly all cases I had only seconds to react, often on busy streets, so the results are a record of that moment. Most people were only too happy to pose for me with their hero. Only two people refused to have their photograph taken. 

02/6/2011 Rory — Chipping Norton, Oxfordshire

This first 'Che' was unintentional, I was initially interested in the guy with a crow on his arm standing outside Sainsbury's supermarket. The crow was called Budge. “Why Budge,” I asked? “Because he keeps 'bugding' about on my arm,” said Rory. Oh well, ask a silly question...

27/6/2011 Victor — Vondel Park, Amsterdam

I spotted Victor as I was cycling through Vondel Park and had to double back to catch up with him. It was my first ‘ask,’ so hadn’t by this stage thought to include “why Che?”

30/6/2011 Roland — Waterloo Plein, Amsterdam

Having said that my brother is also called Roland, he tells me he’s most probably named after a line from a Robert Browning poem — ‘Childe Roland from the dark tower came,’ which, he also tells me, was the inspiration for Stephen King's series of books, The Dark Tower.

Why Che? “I just like him.”

12/7/2011 Ivan — Brussels Zuid station

Having been keeping half an eye out all day in Brussels, it was only as I was stepping off the train at Brussels Zuid to get the Eurostar back to the UK when I saw Ivan coming towards me. He was just about to board a train, so there was only time for the photo and a handshake, no time to speak.

27/7/2011 Simon — Jericho Tavern, Oxford

Simon was walking along Walton Street in Oxford as I was cycling past. I turned round to catch up with him, but he had disappeared into the Jericho Tavern. Not wanting to give up so easily, I locked up my bike followed him inside. Luckily, he was standing at the bar straight in front of the door, so I explained what I was doing, and asked him why he wore Che. “Because he’s an icon, and he stands for revolution.” I asked if I could take a couple of photos, perhaps outside so I didn’t have to use the flash, which he readily agreed to, saying — “I feel like a movie star or something.” 

29/7/2011 Sam — Reading town centre

“I just really like him — and this t-shirt is quite special because my mum brought it back for me from Cuba.”

22/8/2011 Sean — Market Street, Edinburgh

My last day in Edinburgh, and having just given up looking for a marble staircase installation by the artist Martin Creed, I spotted Che poking out behind a grey button-down cardigan. Arrested by the novelty of my approach, Sean happily posed (if slightly embarrassed) while his mate made jokes about him being a movie star now.

Why Che? "He stands for freedom.”

24/8/2011 Stanley — Oxford High Street

Stanley and his chum probably thought I was some kind of weirdo, a drunk, or both, but he posed for me nonetheless.

25/8/2011 Joseph — King's Meadow, Reading

Joseph was walking with two girlfriends towards the Reading Festival.

I tried to get the format I had been using up until then, but he was the first person I had approached who was in a group, so I think this shot of him with the girls works better than the one I took on his own.

26/9/2011 George — Noordermarkt, Amsterdam

Living in Amsterdam, George was obviously used to the weird and the wonderful, so he was not in the least bit fazed when I asked to take a photo. As I photographed him he twisted his head slightly as if to emulate the iconic figure on his t-shirt. He asked for me to send them to him and gave me his email address. I complied with his request but never heard anything back.

16/11/2011 Pepe — Calle Obispo, Havana Cuba

His girlfriend told me they were from Spain, and I was just able to make myself understood enough to take the photo. There is a slightly guarded look on his face in this photo, maybe he thought it was a scam, and that while I was taking a photo someone else would grab his bag. 

17/11/2011 Augustine — San Raphael, Havana Cuba

My first female revolutionary. Again, not much shared language, but enough to understand I wanted a photo of her. In Cuba anything goes. I think she said she was from Argentina.

20/11/2011 Ramone and Brian — Havana Cuba

I was sitting on a bench with some amigos when Ramone and Brian walked by, so it was a split second decision. I leapt up and chased after them. Ramone was not in the slightest bit suspicious or guarded. I asked for a shot of him on his own, but I think this one with his son Brian works better.

No reason to ask “Why Che?” on this occasion, it was plainly obvious. All smiles, Che — thumbs up. “You like Cuba?” hands raised to the cloudless sky and bright sunshine. Wonderful.

21/11/2011 Teddy — The Prado, Havana Cuba

Being in Cuba it was perhaps not surprising that I was now seeing Che T-shirts all over the place, and on my regular morning walk along the Prado to the seafront I met Teddy from Denmark, who has been to Cuba several times.

Why Che? “I just like the Revolutionary figure.” 

21/11/2011 Kjell-Arne — Hotel Inglaterra, Havana Cuba

I bumped into Kjell-Arne (from Norway) as he was leaving Hotel Inglaterra at dusk. The pavement was bustling with people so there was only time for a photo and get his name.

22/11/2011 Chavelis — Havana Cuba

Walking back from the rumba class I spotted this girl with a group of her friends. A lot of giggles and “You must give us diniro!” I pulled a piece of paper from my pocket and asked her to write her name down for me.

23/11/2011 Michael — El Floridita, Havana Cuba

Having just left El Floridita (where Hemingway preferred to drink his daiquiris) Michael was sitting on his bicitaxi waiting for a fare. I didn’t have my camera with me on this occasion, but a friend lent me hers to take this picture.

25/11/2011 Marco — The Prado, Havana Cuba

On my early morning walks along the Prado to the waterfront, it was usually quiet, only a few people heading off to work, and perhaps a couple of guys sweeping the patterned terrazzo. By the time I returned there were a few more people milling about, enjoying the pleasant morning temperature before day warmed up. This is Marco from Italy. 

25/11/2011 Reynaldo — The Prado, Havana, Cuba

There are many Cubans who see a foreign visitor as a potential source of easy revenue. “Just one peso Señor!” Worth 24 times their own national peso, it's hardly surprising many give it a try. Reynaldo was sitting quietly on one of the marble benches on the Malecon, and by his mild manners I could tell he wasn't a born hustler. I pointed to his T-shirt and asked if Che was his hero (or something like that). “Yes Che,” he replied, smiling. “Also Castro, and ...” (someone else). I didn't catch the name so he got out a small plastic wallet in which, amongst other things, were credit card sized reproductions of Che, Castro and Camilo Cienfuegos, whose face I recognised, but his name was less familiar to me. Of all the heroes of the revolution Camilo Cienfuegos was his favourite. Before we parted he insisted I have one of the prints of Che.  

25/11/2011 Marta — The Prado, Havana, Cuba

My third female revolutionary. Language problems again but as soon as I pointed to Che and held up my camera she posed proudly with her son Miguel.

26/11/2011 Fabio — The Malecon, Havana, Cuba

Fabio, from Italy — I could understand that much at least. That and he was obviously enjoying himself in Havana.

26/11/2011 Ernesto — Obispo, Havana, Cuba

The first (and only) 'Ernesto' I encountered. Didn't seem that keen to have his photo taken, maybe he thought it was some sort of scam, or perhaps I was just interrupting his enjoyment of his ice cream. 

01/12/2011 Frank — Amistad, Havana, Cuba

I caught Frank early one morning in my neighbourhood. Very friendly guy, a musician, told me his band was playing at the weekend in Matanzas, and gave me his phone number.

04/12/2011 Andri — Granma Monument, Havana, Cuba

By this point it was getting unnecessary to ask “Why Che?” Visiting from Germany Andri had been there, and got the T-shirt.

04/12/2011 Manuel — Obispo, Havana, Cuba

No mistaking that Manuel was 'wearing Che.' When he discovered I was British he fished something out of his pocket and gave it to me. It was a pound coin, he said it wasn't any use to him. He didn't ask, but I gave him a couple of pesos in exchange. Mentioning that I would be returning soon to the UK he asked if I had any old clothes, razor blades, paracetamol I didn't want. I returned a couple of days later with a small bundle for him.

04/12/2011 Ryo — San Jose, Havana, Cuba

This is Ryo from Japan, and were staying with the same family. One evening he appeared smoking a cigar and had obviously been out shopping for clothes. 

05/12/2011 Mikael — Prado, Havana, Cuba

I forget where Mikael said he was from. One of the Scandinavian countries I think. 

05/12/2011 Yudiel — Plaza De Armas, Havana, Cuba

Yudiel had a stall at the antique and bric-a-brac market in the Plaza De Armas. Funny guy, all smiles and laughter. His character comes over well in this photo. 

05/12/2011 Lazaro — Paseo De Marti, Havana, Cuba

Lazaro's guarded, world (and tourist) wary expression is very honest. I'm pleased he didn't feel the need to pull a 'happy' smile. I think he was working with the taxi crew nearby, and it's a tough life on the streets of Havana.

06/12/2011 Eduardo — Malecon, Havana, Cuba

Eduardo was 'practicing' his trombone on the Malecon in the late afternoon sunshine. Musicians are not supposed to busk for money, and are always keeping an eye out for the police. After playing me a couple of tunes he opened his trombone case, in which were a few coins. After I made a contribution he swiftly shut it again.

07/12/2011 Yanelis — Neptuno, Havana, Cuba

When I asked Yanelis to write her name down she obviously thought I had something else on my mind because she wrote down her phone number as well. My fourth, and last female revolutionary. 

22/3/2012 Vinicious (and Roberta) — Trindade, Florianopolis Brazil

This is by far the most eccentric Che T-shirt I encountered, and Vinicious fitted it well.

I like the way that Roberta's head is snuggling up with Che too.   

20/4/2012 Chino — Canas beach, Florianopolis Brazil

I'd often seen this guy strolling along the praia with his trinkets to sell to the tourists. I wasn't carrying my camera, but luckily I had my old Nokia mobile with me.

5/8/2012 Compañerito — Deventer, The Netherlands

When I started this I had no idea how far I'd take it. I thought that perhaps I should do 39, one for each year of Che's life, but that seemed too contrived. Maybe I'd take as many as I could, then edit them for the best ones. But how could I define which ones constitute the best? These are moments in time, not staged photos, and also personal encounters with people I have met on my travels, and as such all belong to a set. It began with Rory and Budge (the crow), and ends with this little boy in Deventer in The Netherlands. I didn't catch his name, and I'm sure there will be many other photos of him wearing this particular t-shirt.